By the UK Home Forge — The British Blacksmith's Buying Guide Team · Updated June 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

Best Forges for Knifemaking in the UK: Bladesmiths' Top Picks 2026

If you're setting up a home blacksmithing workshop to make knives, your forge choice matters more than most beginners realise. The wrong forge won't reach proper welding temperatures, won't hold long billets, or will eat through expensive lining material within a season. We've looked at what actually works for knifemakers working at small scale.

What to Look for in a Knifemaking Forge

Three specifications separate a decent knifemaking forge from one you'll regret buying.

Forge-welding temperature is the first. You need consistent heat at 1100–1300°C for most blade steels. Not all small forges reach this reliably, especially gas-fired units with undersized burners or poor insulation. If your forge can only hit 900°C, you're not forge-welding—you're inefficiently heat-treating.

Interior width is the second. Most knife blades start as billets 2–5 inches wide. If your forge interior is only 8 inches across, you're struggling to heat the entire width evenly. You want at least 10–12 inches of clear space left-to-right, so heat radiates around the stock without the burner flame hitting the sides.

Lining material is the third. Insulating firebrick (IFB) and ceramic fibre board aren't the same thing. IFB is denser, lasts longer under the abuse of forge work, and conducts heat more predictably—but costs more upfront. Ceramic fibre (blanket or board) is lighter, cheaper, and heats faster, but degrades quickly in active use. For a home setup where you're not running the forge eight hours a day, ceramic fibre works, but you'll reline it every 2–3 years.

Coal and Coke Forges

A traditional solid-fuel forge has genuine advantages for knifemaking. You get excellent temperature control by adjusting the fuel pile, and the heat rises up and around the work consistently. Coal and coke forges are cheap to run once you've bought the forge itself.

The catch is skill and mess. You're managing a live fire, dealing with ash and sparks, and it takes practice to pack the fuel properly so the heat focuses where you need it. For someone working part-time at home, the time cost often outweighs the money savings.

If you go this route, look for a simple cast-iron or steel forge with a 12-inch-plus hearth and a hand-crank blower. It should have a clean sump at the bottom to catch clinker. Avoid models with cheap cast-iron bottoms that crack after a season—seek out heavier-duty builds.

Gas Forges: The Practical Choice

Most UK home knifemakers use gas forges now, and for good reason. You hit temperature in minutes, control heat with a knob, and walk away when you're done. No ash, no waste heat sitting around your workshop.

Burner count matters. A single-burner forge 8 inches square will hit welding heat, but heating a 4-inch-wide blade billet evenly is difficult. Heat concentrates near the burner and cools near the sides. Two-burner designs (even if both are modest size) distribute heat much more evenly. You can run them independently, so you're not over-heating a small billet.

Propane consumption is worth considering. A decent two-burner running at full heat will use roughly 2–3 kg of propane per hour. That's manageable at home hobby rates, but budget accordingly if you're planning serious output.

Ceramic fibre vs IFB—for gas forges, ceramic fibre is typical. It heats up faster, which means your fuel efficiency is better, and it's easier to dig out and reline. The downside is you'll be doing that reline every couple of years if you're active. IFB-lined gas forges exist but are heavier and take longer to come up to temperature.

The Devil Forge Two-Burner: A Solid Middle Ground

The Devil Forge two-burner is a popular choice among amateur UK knifemakers, and there are good reasons. It's got enough interior width (around 11 inches) to heat long stock without turning it constantly, two burners that hit welding temperature reliably, and it uses ceramic fibre lining you can replace yourself for under £30 when needed.

It's not cheap—expect to pay around £400–500 new—but you're buying something that won't strand you halfway through a project. Real knifemakers have used them for years. The main complaint is that both burners together can overheat small billets if you're not careful, but that's a skill issue, not a design flaw.

One practical note: the stands sold with some Devil Forge models are flimsy. Invest in a proper welding table or build a sturdy wooden stand underneath. You're hitting temperatures that will warp a lightweight frame.

Tool and Supply Compatibility

Whatever forge you choose, check availability of replacement linings and spare parts locally or online. Obscure imports can leave you stuck if the lining fails and you can't source a replacement quickly.

Stock up on specialist knifemaking tools that pair well with your forge—good tongs that won't slip on hot billets, hardy-hole tools for drawing and tapering, and a hardy swage block if you're planning volume. These aren't cheap, but they save time and frustration.

Practical Setup Tips

Start with the smallest forge that meets your specs—interior width 10+ inches, two burners or solid fuel setup with proper blower, and linings you can actually replace. You can always upgrade later once you know what you need.

Run your forge outside or with excellent ventilation. Propane and coal smoke aren't pleasant, and neither is the fume from heating steel. A simple metal roof or canopy keeps rain off without costing much.

Keep a temperature gun handy (non-contact, £20) so you can verify you're actually at welding heat. Colour judgment comes with time, but measuring stops you guessing.

A good forge is one you'll use consistently. The best model is the one that sits in your workshop ready to go, not the one that seemed clever online but needs faffing with every session.