By the UK Home Forge — The British Blacksmith's Buying Guide Team · Updated June 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

Best Blacksmithing Tongs and Hammer Sets in the UK

Getting started with home blacksmithing means investing in decent hand tools, and tongs and hammers are where that investment matters most. Poor-quality tongs slip and twist, leaving you fighting the work instead of shaping it. Lightweight hammers tire your arm and deliver inconsistent blows. The right kit—chosen for your actual skill level—transforms the forge work from frustrating to genuinely enjoyable.

Why Tongs and Hammers Matter

Unlike anvil or forge choices, which are one-time big purchases, tongs and hammers are your constant interface with hot metal. A tong that doesn't grip securely forces you to use excessive hand tension, which exhausts you and dulls your technique. A hammer that's too light needs twice the swing speed to move metal; one that's too heavy leaves your shoulders wrecked after an hour's work.

The tongs hold the metal steady and true. The hammer delivers the energy. Together, they determine whether your piece draws out straight, bends where intended, or twists into something you didn't plan. Buy cheap here and you're fighting poor tools rather than learning smithing.

Flat-Jaw Tongs for General Work

Flat-jaw tongs are the workhorse. They grip bar stock securely and work for everything from drawing out mild steel to bending scrolls. The flat faces give you broad contact with rectangular or square bar, which is most of what home smiths handle early on.

Look for tongs with a jaw opening of around 1–1.5 inches; this covers 6–12mm stock comfortably. The reins (handles) should be long enough—18–20 inches is standard—so your knuckles stay clear of the heat radiating from the bar. Cheap versions often have loose rivets that let the jaws rattle, and the steel is soft enough that repeated clamping leaves marks that deepen each heat.

A solid set costs £25–40 per pair via UK suppliers. You'll want at least two pairs: one to hold while you work, one as a spare or for pulling pieces from the fire while the first set cools. Mid-range versions from established UK blacksmith suppliers have tight rivets, hardened jaws that resist deforming, and reins that won't bend permanently under the stress of holding heated metal.

V-Bit Tongs for Rounds and Scrolls

V-bit tongs have V-shaped jaws that grip round stock (rod, wire, nail-sized material) and prevent twisting. If you're making scrolls, loops, or anything curled, these are essential. The V-shape naturally locks a round bar in place, which flat-jaw tongs cannot do—round stock will simply rotate within flat jaws.

For home smithing, a 3–5mm V-bit is most useful. Larger V-bits exist but are niche. The jaw shape means they're less suited to flat bar, so they're a supplement to flat-jaw tongs, not a replacement. Budget another £20–35 for a good pair. The jaw must be hardened consistently; soft steel jaws will deform after a few dozen heats and the V-shape will flatten out, losing grip.

Bolt Tongs for Textured or Irregular Stock

Bolt tongs have cylindrical or wedge-shaped jaws and are excellent for holding bolts, irregular forgings, or anything that doesn't fit neatly into flat or V-shaped jaws. They're less commonly used by beginners but become valuable once you're scrap-forging or working with found steel.

Expect to spend £25–40 for a decent pair. They're genuinely useful but not urgent for your first kit.

Cross-Peen and Rounding Hammers

A cross-peen hammer—where one face is a wedge perpendicular to the hammer handle—is designed for drawing out and tapering. The wedge-shaped peen concentrates force along a line, so a few strikes stretch the metal lengthwise far more efficiently than a ball peen. For bar work and tapering, cross-peen is superior.

Rounding hammers (also called ball-peen) have a domed striking face and are better for evening out surfaces and gentle shaping. Many smiths prefer cross-peen for primary work and keep a rounding hammer for finishing.

Weight matters. A 1.25–1.5kg hammer suits most beginners—heavy enough to move metal without forcing you to swing hard, light enough that you're not exhausted after an hour. Heavier hammers (2kg+) are useful once your technique is solid and your stamina is there. Cheap hammers are often headheavy or have loose heads that rattle and deliver inconsistent blows.

A good hammer costs £30–50. Expect to keep one hammer for five years or more, so the upfront cost is justified.

Beginner Bundles vs Building Your Own

Some UK suppliers sell beginner bundles: tongs (flat-jaw and maybe V-bit), cross-peen hammer, and sometimes a rounding hammer, packaged together for £80–140. If the individual items are decent quality, a bundle saves a bit and gives you a coherent starting point. The risk is bundles sometimes include cheap items you won't use and skip items you will.

A smarter approach: buy one good pair of flat-jaw tongs, a 1.25kg cross-peen hammer, and a pair of V-bit tongs. Total spend around £70–90. That covers 90% of beginner work and you've chosen each tool carefully rather than accepting a bundle compromise.

Intermediate Progression

Once you've forged for a few months, you'll likely add a second cross-peen (different weight for different stock sizes), a rounding hammer, and maybe bolt tongs or specialty tongs like rivet tongs. By that point, you know your preferences and can source tools that match your actual work rather than guessing at beginner bundles.

What to Check When Buying

Look for tight, hardened jaws with no visible cracks or soft spots. The reins should be straight and unbent. Check the hammer head is secure—tap the handle on a hard surface and listen for rattle. Reputable UK suppliers (many small blacksmith tool specialists ship nationwide) will describe hardness and material clearly. Avoid unmarked imports where you can't verify the steel quality.

Well-chosen tongs and hammers transform your first months at the forge. Spending a bit more here means your tools work with you rather than against you, and you'll keep them for years.